"The biggest attraction of islands lies in their different atmosphere and culture," says Tsai Huei-min, head of National Taiwan Normal University's (NTNU) Graduate Institute of Environmental Education. Taiwan has some 121 outlying islands and islets and Tsai, a researcher of island geography and an ardent island traveler, says they have a lot to offer as vacation destinations. She explains that the isolation of Taiwan's outlying islands has helped them to retain their natural beauty as well as a cultural landscape distinct from the populous and highly developed cities of Taiwan proper. As such, Taiwan's islands hold great potential for development into top tourism destinations for both domestic and international holidaymakers.
Recent statistics, however, show that there is still a long way to go before island tourism in Taiwan could really be said to be flourishing. Though the numbers of tourists for the nation's five principal outlying island groups--Penghu, Kinmen, Matsu, Orchid Island and Green Island--have all generally increased over the last 10 years, those figures are still well below Taiwan's top tourism sites. The combined number of visitors to the five island groups was only some 1.5 million last year, about one-fifth the number of tourists who visited Taipei City's National Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall, the most popular tourism site in the nation. It should come as no surprise, therefore, that both the government and many residents on the islands are placing their hopes on developing tourism as a way to boost their local economies and offset some of the negative impacts of population drain. As Tsai has observed from the experience of many other islands around the world, tourism can be a boon for island communities. "Promoting tourism is considered to be the easiest way for islands to accelerate their local development," she says.
Popular Destination
Out of the five major island groups, the Penghu archipelago is the most popular tourism destination and one of the most developed. Covering an area of approximately 127 square kilometers, the island group consists of some 64 islets in a roughly north-south band in the middle of the Taiwan Strait. In 2007, Penghu saw more than 480,000 visitors, compared to 474,067 for Kinmen, 322,908 for Green Island, 75,984 for Matsu and 57,350 for Orchid Island.
In addition to panoramic views, sandy beaches and diverse marine life, Penghu boasts many kinds of water activities including snorkeling, jet skiing, boating and fishing, making it an excellent vacation destination.
Tourism in Penghu has grown rapidly in the last 10 years. Deep-sea fishing and stone trap fishing are two activities that many travel operators include in tourism packages and they are often the activities tourists enjoy the most, says Li Huei-long, a local tour guide. Building stone traps to catch fish is a traditional fishing practice in Penghu. A net is laid on the sea floor and stones are then piled around the edge of the net to hold it in place and form a trap, which fish can easily swim into, but not out of. When a number of fish have found their way into the trap, the stones are moved aside as the net is raised up to catch the fish. After catching fish in this way, visitors then rebuild the trap for the next tourists to the site. By getting involved in the stone trap fishing, Li says, tourists are able to experience part of the lifestyle of Penghu's early settlers while enjoying the fun of catching and cooking their own fish.
Besides water sports and fishing, Penghu also has a unique landscape featuring rock formations of basalt. The basalt columns, up to 30 meters high in some areas, take the shape of vertical pillars and although they might appear to have been manmade, they are naturally occurring, the result of previous volcanic activity. The Penghu Basalt Nature Reserve, established in 1992, centers on three small islets in the northeast of the archipelago and is considered one of Taiwan's top 10 natural wonders.
Conservation of Penghu's environment also extends to its traditional laogu (coral limestone) houses, another feature of the local landscape and one the local government hopes to capitalize on to lure more tourists. Many of the houses, built in a traditional Fujian style, are more than 100 years old and tour guide Li considers visiting the houses a good alternative for tourists who come to the island in winter, when the cold weather precludes water activities. Currently tourist numbers in winter drop to less than 15 percent of those in summertime, Li says.
In 2007, the Council for Economic Planning and Development (CEPD) started a program to subsidize the cost of restoration work for Penghu's laogu houses. Owners may apply for funds of up to NT$3 million (US$96,000) per house to cover up to one-third the cost of restoration work. Homeowners themselves are required to pay the remaining two-thirds of the cost of repairs. So far, only one homeowner has applied for the subsidy.
Betting the Farm
While conservation and nature tourism have been the focus of previous development efforts in Penghu, a debate over whether or not to allow casino development in the archipelago has been going on for more than 10 years. Bills regarding legalizing gambling on Taiwan's outlying islands have been voted on twice before in the legislature, but have failed both times. A new bill to legalize casinos on Taiwan's outlying islands is pending, but even if the bill succeeds, the final outcome for Penghu is uncertain.
At the center of the issue are differing estimations of how much benefit and harm a casino would bring to Penghu, a small community with a registered population of some 90,000.
Proponents say casinos are a good way to boost tourism. Legislator for Penghu Lin Pin-kuan is a strong advocate for the plan who has said it would help the local government generate more of its own tax revenues and so depend less on funds from the central government. It would also create job opportunities, he says, according to a statement from his office. However, Lin also stresses that the final decision for the plan should follow the wishes of Penghu's residents. President Ma Ying-jeou has promised to support the legalization of gambling on the island if a consensus is reached among island residents in favor of the plan.
Penghu tour guide Li says that most people he knows express mixed feelings when they talk about the issue. He says local people do have hopes that the casino development could bring more employment opportunities, but many are concerned about the risks that might come with it such as the introduction of organized crime or other threats to public safety. NTNU's Tsai also says a casino would likely introduce violence and crime to the tranquil island group.
Li says he also has doubts about how many and what kind of jobs would be offered to locals if the casino project goes through. Others question if the plan is still the best option after all this time. Wang Chih-hui, chief of the CEPD's Department of Urban and Housing Development, acknowledges that Penghu has faced challenges in attracting capital for development. But he says the opportunity has passed for reaping any big benefits by opening Taiwan's outlying islands to casino development. "Many nearby cities and countries such as Macao, South Korea, Singapore and Malaysia already have world-class gambling casinos available for tourists," Wang says.
Both Wang and Li suggest that starting with basic improvements to the island's tourism facilities would be a better way to proceed than jumping straight into a large-scale development such as a casino. For example, Wang says that small steps, such as improving public showers and dressing rooms at beaches or increasing signage at local tourism sites, would be a good place to start. Li says renovating the district's airport and expanding accommodation options could encourage new tourists or lure previous visitors back for repeat visits.
Frontline Redefined
Like Penghu, the other two island groups situated to the remote west of Taiwan proper are Kinmen and Matsu. The proximity of the islands to mainland China--little more than 2 kilometers from the mainland coast for Kinmen, and less than one kilometer for Matsu--meant that they were hardest hit by mainland Chinese bombardments toward the end of the Chinese Civil War and for many years after. As a result, both of the island groups became the most heavily fortified military districts under the ROC's control.
In 1987, martial law was lifted on Taiwan proper and most other areas under ROC control, but Kinmen and Matsu remained under military governance until 1992. Moreover, life on the two islands was more restricted and more austere compared with life under martial law on Taiwan proper. As the two districts were perceived as flashpoints for conflict, many restraints were imposed on local people such as curfews, nighttime blackouts, and bans or limits on owning common items such as radios or basketballs.
Local Kinmenese tour guide Chuang Wu-wei says that by the time martial law ended in 1992, local people had been living under strict military governance for so long that it took several years before they even started to become aware of their new rights or enjoy their new freedoms. Times are changing though, as local authorities are looking to develop Kinmen as a destination for historical and cultural tourism. Some of the old military installations such as trenches, bunkers and tunnels have since emerged as popular tourist attractions as the government progressively demilitarizes Kinmen.
In 1995, Kinmen National Park was established to maintain the island's war memorials and historical architecture--Taiwan's only national park devoted to preserving historical sites in addition to the natural environment.
Traditional Fujian-style houses in Kinmen (Photo by Huang Chung-hsin)
Change of Pace
Compared with Kinmen's diverse cultural background, the Matsu island group is more secluded. NTNU's Tsai describes it as an island area where visitors can feel at one with the sea. The hilly terrain and total land area of just 29 square kilometers might make it a less likely site for mass tourism, but Tsai says the tranquil atmosphere could work in its favor. Matsu is a rare find, she says, and offers a perfect getaway for those who just want to enjoy some quiet time by themselves or with friends. She adds that Matsu has become a favored retreat for writers and artists seeking inspiration.
Matsu is also becoming well known as a habitat for a wide variety of migratory birds. During bird-watching season from May to November, thousands of birds can be seen at Matsu's eight conservation sites, according to Wang Shu-ching, head of Golden Dragon Travelers Services. "Tourists are often amazed by the huge number of wild birds and tell me that bird watching alone has made the trip worthwhile," Wang says. Among the hundreds of bird species, the Chinese crested tern has become a "celebrity" since it was discovered in Matsu in 2000. As the rarest member of the gull family, the tern was believed to have been on the verge of extinction before the Matsu find.
A great obstacle to developing tourism on Matsu's islands, however, is unreliable transportation due to the fast-changing weather. Scheduled ferries serving Matsu from Keelung Harbor are routinely suspended year-round because of rough seas, says Huang Ying-chieh, an assistant researcher at the Institute for Physical Planning and Information (IPPI), which works with the CEPD to evaluate funding for Taiwan's outlying islands. In summer, heavy fog frequently closes the two domestic airports. Huang says some of the transportation problems should be eased after the two airports complete work on an instrument landing system, which is expected by 2011. (See related story on page 24.)
Linked In
The geographical proximity of Kinmen and Matsu to mainland China's Fujian province contributed to their being selected in 2001 as the sites of the first direct links between the two sides of the Taiwan Strait in more than 50 years, commonly dubbed the "mini three links."
Ferries sail daily on the Kinmen-Xiamen and Matsu-Mawei City routes connecting the islands to the cities on the mainland coast. The ride takes less than one hour in each direction and since the service commenced more than 1,380,000 people have used the routes to enter mainland China. More than 151,000 visitors from the mainland have also traveled to Kinmen or Matsu. When the service began, travel was limited to residents of Kinmen and Matsu or business people with special permission to make the trip. In April 2007, the mini links were expanded to include Penghu residents and in June this year the links were expanded again, so that now, any ROC citizen with valid travel papers can use the ferry services to travel to mainland China.
CEPD's Wang Chih-hui, NTNU's Tsai and Carol Liu, an associate researcher at IPPI, all say that, so far, the "mini three links" have brought limited economic benefits to the residents of Kinmen and Matsu. Most of the people using the routes are either local residents or business people from other parts of Taiwan who stop briefly in Kinmen on their way to mainland China, they say. Liu says the regular route for business travelers is a shuttle directly from Kinmen airport to the ferry service in Shuitou Harbor, leaving little time to visit other parts of the island or patronize local businesses.
However, Wang Chih-hui is optimistic that the launch of direct charter flights between mainland China and Taiwan and the easing of travel restrictions will benefit the islands. Now, business travellers will likely use the charter flights, and regular tourists, previously barred from travel to mainland China via the mini links, can take full advantage of the service, he says.
Paradise in Peril
Far away to the east side of Taiwan proper are Green Island and Orchid Island, both of which have their own distinct, but equally storied pasts. Green Island, approximately 30 kilometers off Taiwan's east coast, is often dubbed Taiwan's Alcatraz, having served as the site of incarceration for political prisoners during the era of martial law (1949-1987). One regular prison is still in operation on the island.
Tourism has taken off since 1991, with the island a popular site for snorkeling and scuba diving, but the influx of tourists, especially in summer, is taking a toll on the local environment. Chiou Ying-chi, an assistant researcher at IPPI, says water pollution from sewage and garbage dumped directly into the sea has become a serious problem. In fact, water pollution is blamed for a decline in the number of marine species found in waters around the island, as well as damage to some of the island's coral reefs.
The local government has proposed building a water treatment facility for Green Island this year and the plan is currently under evaluation by the central government's Directing Committee for Offshore Islands Development. Air pollution is another challenge for the island, in particular from scooters--the main form of transportation for the island's resident population of some 2,500 as well as the more than 300,000 tourists who visit annually. Approximately 3,500 scooters are registered for use on the small island of little more than 16 square kilometers. The local government is assessing the possibility of promoting the widespread use of electric scooters. Tai Tsung-min, chief of the Recreation and Tourism Section of Taitung County Government's Department of Culture and Tourism, says as a first step to reducing air pollution, Taitung County Government has won support from bicycle maker Giant Inc. to sponsor 100 bicycles for use on the island. The government will also focus on promoting environmental conservation on Green Island starting from this year, Tai says. More comprehensive proposals, such as setting up a national park on the island or limiting the number of visitors, have met with resistance from local residents. (See related story on page 12.)
Geologically, Orchid Island and Green Island have a lot in common--both are volcanic islands and both have abundant coral reefs. However, Orchid Island has quite a different social makeup, being the island home of the Tao aboriginal group, also known as the Yami. According to John K. C. Liu, a professor at National Taiwan University's Graduate Institute of Building and Planning, the Tao have a highly autonomous spirit and have endeavored to keep their traditional way of life. They rely primarily on fishing for a living, some retain the traditional-style housing partially built into the ground, and the tribe also celebrates long-established festivals.
Compared to the rest of the outlying islands, Orchid Island is the least developed for tourism and was only opened to the public in 1967. It is harder to get to, as ferries from Taitung run infrequently and the ride takes about three hours in each direction. The airline service takes about 30 minutes, but the seats are limited and the service is often suspended due to bad weather. However, this has also meant that the island's natural scenery has been preserved in mostly pristine condition.
In recent years, more members of the younger generations are choosing to build cement houses rather than traditional-style houses when they return to Orchid Island after studying or working on Taiwan proper. NTU's Liu sees this as evidence of social change on the island, but says it is too early to tell if this is a positive process of modernization or one of damage to a traditional culture. "The best thing an outsider, [including the government] can do for the locals is encourage and facilitate open communication between the older and younger generations until they reach a consensus on the island's management," NTU's Liu says. "It is important to find a non-invasive and respectful way to interact with them, as well as provide them with more sources of information."
Orchid Island's tourism industry has not been helped by the presence of the Longmen nuclear waste dump at the island's southern tip. Shipments of low and mid-level nuclear waste began arriving from nuclear power plants and nuclear medical and research facilities in 1982 at what was to be a temporary site. Protests over the dump began in 1988, and subsequent demonstrations on Orchid Island and in Taipei did little to enhance the island's image as a tourist destination. The government has been working to find an alternative long-term storage site, but negotiations on the transfer and storage of the waste in other countries have proven difficult, and the situation is currently unresolved. (See related story on page 18.)
While many see tourism as the best way to develop Taiwan's outlying islands, NTNU's Tsai Huei-min emphasizes the importance of making sure development is managed responsibly. One plan to help do just that is for the government to manage a small island according to the principles of sustainable development to serve as a model for all of Taiwan's outlying islands. NTU's Liu says one candidate island for such a program would be Liouciou, an islet just 15 kilometers from the southwest coast of Taiwan proper with a small residential community. The idea would be to show that it is possible to achieve a balance between tourism development and environmental protection. The proposal is still in the early stages of planning.
Looking to the future of the nation's outlying islands, Tsai Huei-min hopes more education can help communities learn to value their island homes as special and distinctive places. This, she says, could inspire new possibilities for the sustainable development of both the environment and economy of Taiwan's diverse outlying islands.
Dongsha National Park
An unusual island landscapelies about 450 kilometers southwest of Kaohsiung City. It is Dongsha Atoll, the largest ring-shaped coral reef in the South China Sea and Taiwan's first marine national park. The atoll covers approximately 500 square kilometers of coral flats, which lie in a crescent-shaped band about two kilometers wide with a total length of 46 kilometers. A small island sits on the western edge of the reef, with the area made a national park in 2007. "Dongsha Atoll is the nation's only extensive atoll, a precious place of natural heritage that's been tens of millions of years in the making," says Shaw I-pung, acting chief of the Dongsha Marine National Park Headquarters.
Coral reefs are often called the "rainforests of the sea" as they are home to a great variety of marine life. To date, 264 kinds of coral and 556 species of fish have been recorded in the area. A major threat to coral reefs worldwide comes from increasing sea temperatures and in addition to this, the coral reefs at Dongsha have been severely damaged by fishing practices such as the use of dynamite, poison and electricity. For example, a survey conducted in one small area of Dongsha's inner atoll showed a significant decline in coral cover from 80 percent in 1994 to 10 percent in 2004. Shaw says fishing boats from Taiwan, mainland China, Vietnam and Hong Kong are among those that have contributed to the damage.
In addition to protecting the island's natural environment from further exploitation, the national park administration began a five-year project in 2007 to experiment with ways to transplant and propagate coral to assist in the restoration of the area's original environment. After more than a year of hard work, it seems the team is off to a good start. Shaw says he has already observed slight increases in the number of fish and other marine life in the area and in the atoll's coral cover.
The national park also protects the indigenous flora of the reef island by manually removing exotic species of trees such as those introduced by the military to serve as wind breaks. Cement breakwaters, also installed by the military, will be dismantled so that the coastline can return to its original state.
Currently the only inhabitants on the island are staffers from the Coast Guard Administration and researchers from the national park administration. The only transportation to the outside world is a weekly flight between Kaohsiung and Dongsha every Thursday, plus the occasional military supply transport. Bicycles are the most common way to get around the island. The national park management holds an annual educational program allowing a small group of university students to visit the park, but that is about the only way to experience the island's charm at the moment.
The rehabilitation of the atoll's natural environment is only just beginning and it will take decades to achieve the large-scale coral restoration necessary at the site. Shaw says more evaluation is needed on what kind of facilities should be built and how many tourists the island is capable of handling, adding that it is still too early to tell when the marine park will be open to the public.
It seems that Dongsha will have to remain a mystery, at least for a few more years. In the meantime, the establishment of the area as a national park marks the nation's determination to protect this unique marine environment for current and future generations.
--Audrey Wang
Write to Audrey Wang at awang@mail.gio.gov.tw